National Food Truck Day

When: June 30

The modern food truck movement began around 2008 in Los Angeles and transformed street food from a working-class institution into a culinary art form. The business model has always been harder than it looks, and the best trucks are as serious about food as any restaurant.

The food truck changed American street food — and the change is more recent, and more complicated, than it looks.

The food truck changed American street food — and the change is more recent, and more complicated, than it looks.

The Chuck Wagon was invented in 1866 by Charles Goodnight, a Texas cattleman who needed to feed his crew on the long drive north to Colorado. He retrofitted a Civil War surplus army wagon with a hinged lid on the back that opened down into a work surface, drawers for supplies, a water barrel, and a chuck box — a cabinet that unfolded into a full kitchen. Goodnight solved the same problem every food truck operator faces: limited space, no fixed infrastructure, and people who need to eat right now. Mobile food vending had existed in American cities before Goodnight — pushcart vendors fed immigrants on the streets of New York's Lower East Side in the 1890s, and the "roach coach" industrial canteen truck served construction sites through the 20th century. But none of these had cultural cachet. Food trucks were practical, not aspirational. That changed on November 2, 2008, when chef Roy Choi sent a Twitter message with a location and parked a truck he called Kogi BBQ at a street corner in...

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